The Story of My First V7

We had an epic day on March 23rd when Casey sent Baggins V11 in Little Cottonwood Canyon. It was amazing!! We are excited for the footage to come out when Tommy finishes his next segment of Little Things. That same afternooon I sent Wills Face V6. It was a FUN day!

The next day was a Sunday, which we always spend relaxing from the week. Unfortunately Casey got a little bored and decided to do a front lever on his parents stairway. Normally this wouldn't be a big deal but on this day, perhaps because of the strenuous day we had on Saturday, his lat gave in with an audible rip. He knew instantly that he was going to be out for at least 4 weeks, probably more. Heartwrenching! The following week I overbouldered and hurt my shoulder. Needless to say the next few weeks (months for Casey) were spent rehabbing. In some ways it was a good thing because we spent our extra time off learning about climbing training, nutrition, etc. The new Momentum gym opened (it's an amazing training facility!) and we started some easy sport climbing. We eased our way back into bouldering and before the temps got too hot we decided to take a trip to Joes Valley.

I had been really wanting to try a V7 in Dairy Canyon called Baldwin Bash. It seemed like it would be my style and I was really hoping to get a V7 before the season ended. Even though Casey's lat was still recovering we found a free weekend and drove to Joes Valley on Friday evening. We went straight to Dairy Canyon and I hopped on the problem. I was able to do all of the moves easily and make a few links before it got dark. I was beyond excited to get back on it in the morning and hopefully send! 

Saturday morning we made the hike up to the boulder and I did the ending to warm up and make sure it was the beta I wanted. I was bumping out to a slopey left hand hold that felt slippery in the warm sun, but once I got my right hand on the indent next to it, the top out was easy for me. I decided to try from the start and I was able to link it all the way to the top out! I slipped off the left hand sloper but felt confident that I could send it since I was only one move away. I rested and went from the start again. Same story. Rested again...fell of the left hand sloper again! It was getting frustrating!

Sitting sorrowfully after another failed attempt. 

I could do the whole problem, but every time I was falling from that left hand sloper. I was confident that it was definitely within my ability, but doubting whether or not I would be able to send it in the warm weather. Casey, being the awesome husband/coach that he is, encouraged me to rest during the day and come back in the evening when the top out was in the shade. I decided that was a good idea and left feeling hopeful but disheartened.

 Casey, in the meantime, had an awesome day of onsighting as he tried a bunch of easier climbs to rehab his lat. He was able to onsight Vertical Ice V6, Smoke One Later V6, Heifer V7, and 2% V7!

It was a great morning hiking around to new boulders and watching him send them so quickly.
He didn't want to overdo it for his lat so we ate lunch and took a little nap on our crashpads in the little meadow at Dairy Canyon. We were tired and feeling ready to pack up and go home. I almost decided to throw in the towel and not even try Baldwin Bash anymore. Fortunately we decided to hike back up and give it a few more tries, even though the sun hadn't set yet. When we arrived at the boulder I decided to try the ending again. I did it easy with  my old beta so I hopped on for another go from the start. I made it all the way to that sloper, and fell again!
Rethinking my plan, I tried some different beta for the ending, using my left hand on the indent I had been going for with my right hand, and it felt really awkward. I was sure that the easiest way was my original method. I tried it from the start over and over again, with the same result, falling at the end every time! There were some other people climbing there that suggested a right heel hook for the ending. I tried it with no luck. I really wanted to send the problem and I knew I could do it! I tried it a few more times from the start and guess what happened?... That's right! I fell off the left hand sloper time after time! Finally I realized that it was not going to happen with the beta I wanted (I guess I'm a slow learner?). I tried the ending again with my left hand on the indent, a high right step, and a long reach to the jug. Although it felt more awkward, it worked, so I worked up the energy to try the problem one more time from the start. By this time I was extremely tired. Luckily by this point I had the beginning of the problem totally engrained in my muscle memory. I started the problem and every move felt much more difficult and desperate. I knew that if I fell there was no way I was going to be able to do the problem again. I held on and moved with every ounce of strength I could muster and....I SENT THE PROBLEM!!! The top out was long, desperate and ugly but I couldn't have cared less. I did it! In a matter of two days and an enormous amount of effort, I sent my first V7.

I had tried it so many times that the skin on my right hand ring finger was completely worn away after my final topout. It was worth it!

baldwin bash from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Girl Beta

As promised, here is some video footage of a few of the climbs I did this past Fall and Winter. These are some of my favorite climbs to date!


Girl Beta from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Spring Break at Joe's Valley

Casey and I were able to spend some time at Joes Valley for spring break this year. We also spent a day at Barn Canyon. Beautiful areas with so much amazing rock! Unfortunately the trip ended on kind of a bad note as you'll see from the video!

The Blowout from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

The good news is that Casey's finger is now fully recovered after a few months off from hard crimpers!

Barf and More Sends for Tommy

So last week was my spring break from school.  This means non-stop climbing for a week right? Well unfortunately I'm still nursing a finger injury so I felt like I at least needed to take it somewhat easy.  The plan was to go to Black and Tan on Monday then Joe's Thursday through Saturday. On Monday I did make it out to Black and Tan with Jens for some roped climbing.  It was fun, but I definitely have a long way to go to be able to climb anything significant on a rope.  I am loving the new challenge though.  On Thursday I was feeling completely psyched to be at Joe's.  My finger was feeling better than it had in a while and I was excited to try out some new problems.  I sent the Angler (V2) second try! Yay! Then we hiked around looking for various problems.  I was excited to check out the Accordion and Moment of Truth only to find a ten foot sheet of ice covering them!  As we made our way up to Trent's Mom I started to feel a little bit exhausted and sick to my stomach.  It was hot and I figured I just needed a better warm up.  So I climbed around a little bit until we gave up and started onward to the real goal of the trip, Godsend.  Godsend is a beautiful submarine prow jutting out of a cliff band about 500 vertical feet above the road.  I thought the deathly steep 30 minute hike would wake me up and fix my rumbling tummy.  I was wrong.  After getting there my stomach hurt so bad I could hardly stand.  I still gave Godsend a few solid goes to no avail.  It felt doable which was nice, maybe on a non terminal illness (maybe a bit dramatic) day I could send.  Tommy did it in a few tries of course.  At this point I was worried about my ability to hike down and was trying to think of a way to use my crash pad as a sled to avoid being on my feet.  Well anyway I started down and walked slowly about 100 feet before it all started to come up.  I quickly dropped my crash pad, bent over off the trail, and sprayed the hillside with a cascade of my belly's contents. It was the 2nd time I had thrown up in last 15 years of my life.  Fortunately, I felt a little bit better and made the hike down.  Unfortunately, I had to bail on Tommy later that evening (it was the longest 3 hour drive of my life). But also fortunately, he still had a good trip sending Godsend (V9) and The Incredible Hulk (V9). Here's his video:
 

Moe's Valley Comp and a taste of Joe's

A few weekends ago we were happy to attend the annual Moe's Valley clean up and comp. Casey's finger was still in recovery, so I represented the Webb's. It turned out to be an AWESOME day for me!!! I was a little worried when we first showed up because I wasn't feeling too great, but I went with the attitude of just having a good time and hopefully sending my project. Jens and Vonae joined us for the fun, and they were the perfect climbing companions. We started off with some short, easy warm ups and then Jens quickly sent No Mind V5 and Huntsman Graffiti also V5. We then hiked up to the upper valley, did a few more V3's to warm up and I hopped on my project Backhoe V5. I did the ending a couple times because that has been my downfall (literally!) on my last few attempts. It felt great and I figured out the best beta, then I tried it from the start. I'm happy to say that I sent it! Wahoo!!!!! What a great feeling! I love sending projects! I was still feeling pretty good so I decided to try Device Ignitor Middle. I sent it over a year ago and I have to admit I haven't tried repeating it because I was afraid it would shut me down and I'd get discouraged. Not the case. I guess the psych of a competition was on my side because I sent it I think on my 4th try! It felt so invigorating!! Two V5's in a day for me is kind of a big deal. And then I sent Underwhere right V4! By this point my climbing was getting less than graceful, but I was having so much fun and felt so motivated. I was totally worn out by the end of the day, but it was worth it. I had a blast!! And, as a bonus, I won the women's division of the comp!! Jens also did fantastic and won the men's intermediate division! It was the funnest day of bouldering I've had in a while. Mostly because I have the coolest, most supportive, awesome husband in the world! Seriously, I owe it all to him. Well...almost all. I did work pretty hard. :) And now that I've spent too much time bragging about myself, here are some pictures!

And a video Casey made of my project.


And as an even greater bonus, here's a little video Tommy put together of some of his Joe's Valley footage. Looking awesome!

Joe's Valley Winter 2012 from Tommy Rigby on Vimeo.

A Nice Solo Day for Tommy

Day trip to Joe's Valley from Tommy Rigby on Vimeo.

Joe's Valley trip

Thank heaven for long weekends and good friends is all I have to say. Our weekend trip to Joe's Valley was a HUGE success!! The Cedar crew tore it up! What an incredible place. Everyone climbed amazingly well, launching bouldering season with a great start. I could literally (almost) feel the excitement in the air. The recent sends list will need to be totally remodeled. Enough words, here are the pics!

Cameron had an awesome first trip to Joe's! He is progressing very quickly! Good job!

Greg also had a great weekend, sending problems left and right!

Tommy never ceases to amaze us with his incredible bouldering ability, even after having a broken wrist and not climbing for like a year!

Climbing at the Front is obviously going well for Andy as he also spent the weekend with send after send!

Not only is Zach a great guy, he is also a great climber! So strong!

Joe had an incredible weekend as well, so I hear. I never actually saw him climb so it could just be rumor. :) Just kidding of course.  Sorry I didn't get any pics of you Joe!

My favorite climber Casey (sorry everyone, we're married what can I say?) also did great!! He sent Marble Cake v9/10 in just a few tries and made great progress on Resident Evil. We have to go back in a few weeks because it is going down!

Bridget proved that she has awesome technique and retains her climbing ability amazingly well even as a first year teacher! Yay for girl climbing buddies. :)

I had fun too of course!! Didn't even want to come home in fact. The life of a climbing bum is sounding more and more appealing every day. :)

Our friend who had one too many sips of beer before trying to learn how to boulder. Yes, you do have to lift your bum off the ground before you move your hand to send the problem. Very entertaining!

Casey looking great on Wills a Fire, my new project. A must do for anybody who is close to that level!

We also have a few videos that we will post asap.

Joes Valley Bouldering

Last weekend we made a trip to Joes Valley for some bouldering! The weather was beautiful and the climbing was great. Casey tried hundreds of hard problems!....ok ok so it wasn't really hundreds but it was a lot. He tried over twenty problems at least and about half of those were V8's and above. He got super close on all of them. A lot of them will go down next time for sure! Casey working Fingerhut V10 via headlamp after a long day of climbing. The night won't stop him!

So close on Team Effort V8/9. This was at the end of the trip after wearing himself out on everything else. He'll get it easy when he's fresh.

Bryce on Pimpin Jeans V4. Joe's Vally is awesome.

Bridget also working Pimpin Jeans V4.

Moe's, Joe's, The Wash, Ibex,LCC, Utah!!!

It's been an eventful past few weeks! The clan just got through with an awesome spring break trip through Utah. It started with a one trip to the wonderful, amazing, crazy, desolate land of Ibex. At the moment I(Casey) would have to say that Ibex ranks as my number one climbing spot. However it is a shame that the weather is turning, because i don't believe that the weather is compatible with the greasy quartzite that make up the boulders. Ibex was a successful trip Sheralee and Bridget both sent a couple of V2's which was nice. Tommy sent the ultra-classic Ju(V7) on his first try! It took me two. Then after a bit of work I was able to scramble up Big-Gulp(V8). It is an incredible line that climbs up about 16 feet of rock in like 3 moves! We will be back this fall to try Bruce Lee (V10) and the Bomb (V9).

Next we headed out to Joe's. I admit that none of us have very good endurance because we were already wasted when we got there. However we still managed to get a few good sends. Sheralee climbed Bad Jeans (V3) she just walked right up the slightly overhanging crimpy face (We won't get into how she did the top out)! Brigdet and her also sent Warm Me Up Scotty (V1) it's a must do for climbers of every level! Tommy easily threw down a coulpe repeats of Stand Up (V8) so I decided to try it a bit also. But I just couldn't get my dumb foot to stick. I tried another foot beta and it still kept on popping, I must be retarded or something so I just dedided to try and campus it. It worked!

After that we went to LCC and got shut down big time. Maybe we we worn out, but I think we just stink at the lack of foot holds, well I guess I'll speak for myself: I stink at LCC. But watch out Superfly and Copperhead I think they'll go down next time.

Lately we've been climbing at the Wash just west of Cedar City. At first I disliked the chossy, sharp rock, but lately it has started to grow on me. Amongst these chossy, painful boulders there are quite a few awesome problems of all grades. Tommy has been tearing it apart! He sent three V8's there in the last week! But even more exciting was when he sent Bazooka Tooth(V10) today!Good Job Tommy!

Me on Gerbil Jammin' V8 at the Wash