It's What We Do

Sunday, March 30, 2014

Ogden Bouldering


(Post by Casey)
This spring we've taken the opportunity to really check out the bouldering on 27th street in Ogden. This area is often overlooked by Salt Lake climbers. I'm not really sure why.  It is a small area, but offers a style of climbing that compliments LCC quite well, incut crimps and blocky pinches on overhanging quarzite.  Most of my time in Ogden was spent projecting in a cave called the Spirit Walker Cave. This cave was cleaned, dug out, and developed through hard work by an extremely strong and motivated Ogden local, Anthony Chertudi.  It hosts about five or six problems ranging from V10-V13. It may look a bit chossy in sections, but the movement is phenomenal.  Some of the best physical steep climbing I've done.  This style seems to come a bit more natural to me so I was extremely psyched to have a boulder like this 45 minutes from home. 

Unfortunately, my spring season came to a close last week when I tore my lat.  I was only able to finish off Blood and Fire (V10).  My main objective in the cave was to climb Cinderella is Dead (V13).  I managed to do all the moves and make some links.  It feels very doable and I'll be looking forward to trying it in the fall.



 (Blood and Fire V10)


 Pins and Feathers V11?

 Pins and Feathers 

 JFC V7

 Cinderella is Dead V13

 Cinderella is Dead V13

The Cave V5


Blood & Fire: Ogden Bouldering from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Girl Beta

As promised, here is some video footage of a few of the climbs I did this past Fall and Winter. These are some of my favorite climbs to date!


Girl Beta from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

The Sweet Sweet Smell of Success

        Our move to Salt Lake City has been beneficial for me as a climber in a few different ways. First of all, access to a gym, while not as enjoyable as climbing as outside, has helped me progress in both strength and technique just by the availability of a lot of mileage and through all of the training tools available (campus board, weights, etc.). Second of all, and probably the most significant of the two, is the way it has opened my eyes to possibilities! I get to see so many strong women climbing both at the gym and outside. I realized that I have been holding myself back by placing barriers on what I thought was possible for myself. Moving to a new climbing community has been enlightening just because I have witnessed so many people saying, "Why not?" and going for something beyond what they might see as their limit. No, I haven't made any huge jumps in my progression...but I am seeing progression! Nothing is more satisfying in climbing than experiencing tangible progress.
       Moes has been my stomping ground since I started bouldering and it's really where I learned to climb. It's also a great place for me to be able to perceive how much I have improved. I got my first V1 at Moes and I was stoked! I also got my first V2, V4, V5 and V6 at Moes. I know it's not the most awesome climbing crag in the world, but it has a variety of classic problems and I have truly enjoyed climbing there. It feels like home, and I love the Southern Utah Desert! 
       Ever since I started climbing, I have heard people rave about the problem Israil at Moes Valley. After I got a few V5's I decided to take a look at it. I felt the holds and everything seemed doable, except the big move left to an opposing sidepull jug. I thought my arms were too stretched out and it would be impossible for me to do it without using the slopey crimp at the lip. I told myself it was too hard for shorter people, and I moved on to other things. This year, I decided I'd like to give it another shot. For the MLK holiday weekend Casey and I traveled to Moes for a little climbing trip. I hoped Israil would feel possible, but in the back of my mind I still had doubts. My first session on it I was able to do all of the moves! Without using the horrible crimp! I was so psyched!!! I figured out my beta for all of the moves, and went back on Monday to give it another go. I wasn't able to send but I made some good links. Over the next few weeks I obsessed over the climb. Every night as I was falling asleep, I was mentally climbing Israil, remembering every foot hold, every hand bump. Finally Presidents Day rolled around and we made our way back to Moes. My first try on the climb I made a link from the start to the big move and almost stuck it! It felt like I had climbed it a million times. I worked out the big move a few times by itself and went from the start again. I was so excited I had butterflies! Everything came together and I was able to send the problem!! It was one of my favorite sends to date. I loved it!! That is why I love bouldering. The process of the movement going from impossible, to probable, and finally doing it. So fun!!

(video footage coming soon!)


I was also able to send a few other problems while we were there. 
Dustbowl V5

 Unfortunately there aren't as many double digit problems left for Casey to climb as there are moderates for me, but he was able to keep himself entertained by sending Yoyo Mama, a V10 on the Monkey Boy boulder.

Whenever we go back to Southern Utah we love seeing our friends and family in the area! There are so many great people both in the climbing community and just in general. 
Kara working out her beta on Hermione V3

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Vegas!

We kept up our New Year's tradition with a trip to Red Rocks again this year. Unfortunately I had to be back for work on January 2nd so it wasn't as long as we had hoped, but it was still packed with a lot of enjoyable climbing and hiking. We arrived Saturday morning and spent the day at Kraft. Casey onsighted Classic Monkey and sent Stake Your Claim, and I climbed the Pearl. The crowds were unbelievable in the area. It was like climbing at a gym! Sunday we took a rest day and Monday morning we decided to go into Red Rocks National Reserve where we spent the day at Oak Creek. I was really excited to try Blood Trails but it was baking in the sun. After tearing up my finger and getting very frustrated we hiked up the hill and Casey sent Drunken Monkey. Tuesday was our last day so we spent the morning at Willow Springs and went back to Blood Trails for a few hours after it went in the shade. Neither of us were able to send that day, but we left some projects that we will be happy to get back to with fresh skin! 


Stake Your Claim V10

The Pearl V5




 A great send for Casey! One of his favorite climbs ever!

 Blood Trails V5. So classic!

 I definitely left some of my own trails...

 Drunken Monkey V9

Ode to the Modern Mayor V9/10


I love the yellow and gray rocks in Willow Springs. A beautiful contrast to the red rocks that are so prominent in the area!


Sunday, January 19, 2014

Dalton Wash

Over the last few months our trips to Southern Utah have included stops at Dalton Wash, a fairly new area with some quality boulder problems. It is located just east of Virgin and there is a lot of nice rock. We've had some good sends and some heartbreaking almost-sends! 

 Powerbar V5

 Casey and Seth working Devastator V11 at the same time!



 Magnificent views!


 Seth working Cactus and Roses, one of Casey's FA's.

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Bunker Creek Video

We finally put together a video of some of our Bunker Creek footage!!
After being inspired by the awesome climbs featured in this video, you should go there and check it out for yourself! Every climb in this video is at least a 2 star classic. Might be a little chilly this time of year, but come April you are in for a treat.

Bunker Creek from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Boulderers Anonymous

We are addicted to bouldering. It’s true. We try to bring balance to our lives and become successful sport climbers, but we get one little taste of bouldering and we’re right back at it! This summer we were determined. I got my first 5.12b, Casey got a few 13’s. We had big plans for the sport climbing in Northern Utah when we moved. Then we got here, had a few bouldering sessions with Tommy, Fall arrived and we were goners. What can I say? We love bouldering!!  

Fingerhut V10

 Joe's has some amazing features!


The weather this October was phenomenal. Beautiful, sunny, crispy cool days! Little Cottonwood has kicked our butts in gear and we’re finally starting to get the hang of it! Well Casey is at least. I can see some big sends in the near future for him. There is also a little hope on the horizon for myself I think. LCC definitely has it’s own unique style. It is also just so beautiful this time of year! If it weren’t for the thousands (literally thousands!!!) of tiny green bugs blanketing the maple leaves we would have been tempted to spend every waking minute there. It was gross people. We did brave the bugs for a few fun sessions.





 Wormography

 Casey (above) and Tommy (below) on Wrist Rocket

We have also enjoyed a few great to trips to Joe’s Valley. After frustrating ourselves on the slick granite of LCC and the sweaty plastic of the Momentum Climbing Gym, the sandstone of Joe’s felt sweet to our fingers. Oh friction how we love thee! For our fall break we decided to spend 3 days camping at Joe’s. It was a 3 days well spent! The first day we set up camp then I warmed up on Dem Bones, a really fun v3 with powerful-ish moves at the start to a high juggy finish. Then we made our way over to Pimpers Paradise. I did the top out to build my confidence and sent it on my second go from the start. It felt so good! I wanted to try another v5 called Big Cheesy so Casey did the V9 next to it, Taking the Stairs. Once he figured out the beta it was an easy send for him! The next day we decided to head to New Joe’s. Casey did the top of of Resident Evil then sent it first try from the start! We decided to hike up to Salsa Verde V5 and stopped to look at a few things on the way. It was hot and baking in the sun by that time of the day, so I fell three or four times from the slopey holds at the top. The next morning Casey wanted to try Eye of the Beholder V10/11 (depending on who you ask) so we hiked up and he sent it from where we thought the start was in about 40 minutes. We drove over to New Joes so I could do Salsa Verde. In the meantime, Casey decided to make sure he started Eye of the Beholder from the right place. A few holds have broken so it is really unclear where the new start is. He watched 3 videos of the climb. All three started at least one move lower than he did, but all three used different starting holds! He was feeling discouraged that he might not have done the real problem, so after I sent Salsa Verde, we decided to drive back to Right Fork, make the steep hike up the hill and try it from the lower start. Might as well right?! We were exhausted from so much hiking, but Casey tried the problem from what seemed like the most logical lower start and was able to send it really quickly again! It was awesome! Playmate of the Year V9 was on the trail on our hike back down so he decided to try that one since we were there. And he sent! It was a great trip for both of us! We were completely spent by the time we got home, but it was a great feeling knowing that we were both able to accomplish some personal bests. I think it was our best combined send trip yet!
Most of these pics are from different trips. We have started collecting some video footage that we'll be publishing someday...







Resident Evil

Really cool features on the hike down from Eye of the Beholder. 
Turtlehead V8. This one is actually at the Price Recreation Area boulders.