It's What We Do

Thursday, June 19, 2014

The Story of My First V7

We had an epic day on March 23rd when Casey sent Baggins V11 in Little Cottonwood Canyon. It was amazing!! We are excited for the footage to come out when Tommy finishes his next segment of Little Things. That same afternooon I sent Wills Face V6. It was a FUN day!

The next day was a Sunday, which we always spend relaxing from the week. Unfortunately Casey got a little bored and decided to do a front lever on his parents stairway. Normally this wouldn't be a big deal but on this day, perhaps because of the strenuous day we had on Saturday, his lat gave in with an audible rip. He knew instantly that he was going to be out for at least 4 weeks, probably more. Heartwrenching! The following week I overbouldered and hurt my shoulder. Needless to say the next few weeks (months for Casey) were spent rehabbing. In some ways it was a good thing because we spent our extra time off learning about climbing training, nutrition, etc. The new Momentum gym opened (it's an amazing training facility!) and we started some easy sport climbing. We eased our way back into bouldering and before the temps got too hot we decided to take a trip to Joes Valley.
I had been really wanting to try a V7 in Dairy Canyon called Baldwin Bash. It seemed like it would be my style and I was really hoping to get a V7 before the season ended. Even though Casey's lat was still recovering we found a free weekend and drove to Joes Valley on Friday evening. We went straight to Dairy Canyon and I hopped on the problem. I was able to do all of the moves easily and make a few links before it got dark. I was beyond excited to get back on it in the morning and hopefully send! 
Saturday morning we made the hike up to the boulder and I did the ending to warm up and make sure it was the beta I wanted. I was bumping out to a slopey left hand hold that felt slippery in the warm sun, but once I got my right hand on the indent next to it, the top out was easy for me. I decided to try from the start and I was able to link it all the way to the top out! I slipped off the left hand sloper but felt confident that I could send it since I was only one move away. I rested and went from the start again. Same story. Rested again...fell of the left hand sloper again! It was getting frustrating!

Sitting sorrowfully after another failed attempt. 

I could do the whole problem, but every time I was falling from that left hand sloper. I was confident that it was definitely within my ability, but doubting whether or not I would be able to send it in the warm weather. Casey, being the awesome husband/coach that he is, encouraged me to rest during the day and come back in the evening when the top out was in the shade. I decided that was a good idea and left feeling hopeful but disheartened.

 Casey, in the meantime, had an awesome day of onsighting as he tried a bunch of easier climbs to rehab his lat. He was able to onsight Vertical Ice V6, Smoke One Later V6, Heifer V7, and 2% V7!
It was a great morning hiking around to new boulders and watching him send them so quickly.
He didn't want to overdo it for his lat so we ate lunch and took a little nap on our crashpads in the little meadow at Dairy Canyon. We were tired and feeling ready to pack up and go home. I almost decided to throw in the towel and not even try Baldwin Bash anymore. Fortunately we decided to hike back up and give it a few more tries, even though the sun hadn't set yet. When we arrived at the boulder I decided to try the ending again. I did it easy with  my old beta so I hopped on for another go from the start. I made it all the way to that sloper, and fell again!
Rethinking my plan, I tried some different beta for the ending, using my left hand on the indent I had been going for with my right hand, and it felt really awkward. I was sure that the easiest way was my original method. I tried it from the start over and over again, with the same result, falling at the end every time! There were some other people climbing there that suggested a right heel hook for the ending. I tried it with no luck. I really wanted to send the problem and I knew I could do it! I tried it a few more times from the start and guess what happened?... That's right! I fell off the left hand sloper time after time! Finally I realized that it was not going to happen with the beta I wanted (I guess I'm a slow learner?). I tried the ending again with my left hand on the indent, a high right step, and a long reach to the jug. Although it felt more awkward, it worked, so I worked up the energy to try the problem one more time from the start. By this time I was extremely tired. Luckily by this point I had the beginning of the problem totally engrained in my muscle memory. I started the problem and every move felt much more difficult and desperate. I knew that if I fell there was no way I was going to be able to do the problem again. I held on and moved with every ounce of strength I could muster and....I SENT THE PROBLEM!!! The top out was long, desperate and ugly but I couldn't have cared less. I did it! In a matter of two days and an enormous amount of effort, I sent my first V7.
I had tried it so many times that the skin on my right hand ring finger was completely worn away after my final topout. It was worth it!

baldwin bash from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Sunday, March 30, 2014

Ogden Bouldering

(Post by Casey)
This spring we've taken the opportunity to really check out the bouldering on 27th street in Ogden. This area is often overlooked by Salt Lake climbers. I'm not really sure why.  It is a small area, but offers a style of climbing that compliments LCC quite well, incut crimps and blocky pinches on overhanging quarzite.  Most of my time in Ogden was spent projecting in a cave called the Spirit Walker Cave. This cave was cleaned, dug out, and developed through hard work by an extremely strong and motivated Ogden local, Anthony Chertudi.  It hosts about five or six problems ranging from V10-V13. It may look a bit chossy in sections, but the movement is phenomenal.  Some of the best physical steep climbing I've done.  This style seems to come a bit more natural to me so I was extremely psyched to have a boulder like this 45 minutes from home. 

Unfortunately, my spring season came to a close last week when I tore my lat.  I was only able to finish off Blood and Fire (V10).  My main objective in the cave was to climb Cinderella is Dead (V13).  I managed to do all the moves and make some links.  It feels very doable and I'll be looking forward to trying it in the fall.

 (Blood and Fire V10)

 Pins and Feathers V11?

 Pins and Feathers 


 Cinderella is Dead V13

 Cinderella is Dead V13

The Cave V5

Blood & Fire: Ogden Bouldering from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Girl Beta

As promised, here is some video footage of a few of the climbs I did this past Fall and Winter. These are some of my favorite climbs to date!

Girl Beta from Casey Webb on Vimeo.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

The Sweet Sweet Smell of Success

        Our move to Salt Lake City has been beneficial for me as a climber in a few different ways. First of all, access to a gym, while not as enjoyable as climbing as outside, has helped me progress in both strength and technique just by the availability of a lot of mileage and through all of the training tools available (campus board, weights, etc.). Second of all, and probably the most significant of the two, is the way it has opened my eyes to possibilities! I get to see so many strong women climbing both at the gym and outside. I realized that I have been holding myself back by placing barriers on what I thought was possible for myself. Moving to a new climbing community has been enlightening just because I have witnessed so many people saying, "Why not?" and going for something beyond what they might see as their limit. No, I haven't made any huge jumps in my progression...but I am seeing progression! Nothing is more satisfying in climbing than experiencing tangible progress.
       Moes has been my stomping ground since I started bouldering and it's really where I learned to climb. It's also a great place for me to be able to perceive how much I have improved. I got my first V1 at Moes and I was stoked! I also got my first V2, V4, V5 and V6 at Moes. I know it's not the most awesome climbing crag in the world, but it has a variety of classic problems and I have truly enjoyed climbing there. It feels like home, and I love the Southern Utah Desert! 
       Ever since I started climbing, I have heard people rave about the problem Israil at Moes Valley. After I got a few V5's I decided to take a look at it. I felt the holds and everything seemed doable, except the big move left to an opposing sidepull jug. I thought my arms were too stretched out and it would be impossible for me to do it without using the slopey crimp at the lip. I told myself it was too hard for shorter people, and I moved on to other things. This year, I decided I'd like to give it another shot. For the MLK holiday weekend Casey and I traveled to Moes for a little climbing trip. I hoped Israil would feel possible, but in the back of my mind I still had doubts. My first session on it I was able to do all of the moves! Without using the horrible crimp! I was so psyched!!! I figured out my beta for all of the moves, and went back on Monday to give it another go. I wasn't able to send but I made some good links. Over the next few weeks I obsessed over the climb. Every night as I was falling asleep, I was mentally climbing Israil, remembering every foot hold, every hand bump. Finally Presidents Day rolled around and we made our way back to Moes. My first try on the climb I made a link from the start to the big move and almost stuck it! It felt like I had climbed it a million times. I worked out the big move a few times by itself and went from the start again. I was so excited I had butterflies! Everything came together and I was able to send the problem!! It was one of my favorite sends to date. I loved it!! That is why I love bouldering. The process of the movement going from impossible, to probable, and finally doing it. So fun!!

(video footage coming soon!)

I was also able to send a few other problems while we were there. 
Dustbowl V5

 Unfortunately there aren't as many double digit problems left for Casey to climb as there are moderates for me, but he was able to keep himself entertained by sending Yoyo Mama, a V10 on the Monkey Boy boulder.

Whenever we go back to Southern Utah we love seeing our friends and family in the area! There are so many great people both in the climbing community and just in general. 
Kara working out her beta on Hermione V3

Sunday, January 26, 2014


We kept up our New Year's tradition with a trip to Red Rocks again this year. Unfortunately I had to be back for work on January 2nd so it wasn't as long as we had hoped, but it was still packed with a lot of enjoyable climbing and hiking. We arrived Saturday morning and spent the day at Kraft. Casey onsighted Classic Monkey and sent Stake Your Claim, and I climbed the Pearl. The crowds were unbelievable in the area. It was like climbing at a gym! Sunday we took a rest day and Monday morning we decided to go into Red Rocks National Reserve where we spent the day at Oak Creek. I was really excited to try Blood Trails but it was baking in the sun. After tearing up my finger and getting very frustrated we hiked up the hill and Casey sent Drunken Monkey. Tuesday was our last day so we spent the morning at Willow Springs and went back to Blood Trails for a few hours after it went in the shade. Neither of us were able to send that day, but we left some projects that we will be happy to get back to with fresh skin! 

Stake Your Claim V10

The Pearl V5

 A great send for Casey! One of his favorite climbs ever!

 Blood Trails V5. So classic!

 I definitely left some of my own trails...

 Drunken Monkey V9

Ode to the Modern Mayor V9/10

I love the yellow and gray rocks in Willow Springs. A beautiful contrast to the red rocks that are so prominent in the area!

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Dalton Wash

Over the last few months our trips to Southern Utah have included stops at Dalton Wash, a fairly new area with some quality boulder problems. It is located just east of Virgin and there is a lot of nice rock. We've had some good sends and some heartbreaking almost-sends! 

 Powerbar V5

 Casey and Seth working Devastator V11 at the same time!

 Magnificent views!

 Seth working Cactus and Roses, one of Casey's FA's.

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Bunker Creek Video

We finally put together a video of some of our Bunker Creek footage!!
After being inspired by the awesome climbs featured in this video, you should go there and check it out for yourself! Every climb in this video is at least a 2 star classic. Might be a little chilly this time of year, but come April you are in for a treat.

Bunker Creek from Casey Webb on Vimeo.