It's What We Do: Boulderers Anonymous

We are addicted to bouldering. It’s true. We try to bring balance to our lives and become successful sport climbers, but we get one little taste of bouldering and we’re right back at it! This summer we were determined. I got my first 5.12b, Casey got a few 13’s. We had big plans for the sport climbing in Northern Utah when we moved. Then we got here, had a few bouldering sessions with Tommy, Fall arrived and we were goners. What can I say? We love bouldering!!

Fingerhut V10

Joe's has some amazing features!

The weather this October was phenomenal. Beautiful, sunny, crispy cool days! Little Cottonwood has kicked our butts in gear and we’re finally starting to get the hang of it! Well Casey is at least. I can see some big sends in the near future for him. There is also a little hope on the horizon for myself I think. LCC definitely has it’s own unique style. It is also just so beautiful this time of year! If it weren’t for the thousands (literally thousands!!!) of tiny green bugs blanketing the maple leaves we would have been tempted to spend every waking minute there. It was gross people. We did brave the bugs for a few fun sessions.

Wormography

Casey (above) and Tommy (below) on Wrist Rocket

We have also enjoyed a few great to trips to Joe’s Valley. After frustrating ourselves on the slick granite of LCC and the sweaty plastic of the Momentum Climbing Gym, the sandstone of Joe’s felt sweet to our fingers. Oh friction how we love thee! For our fall break we decided to spend 3 days camping at Joe’s. It was a 3 days well spent! The first day we set up camp then I warmed up on Dem Bones, a really fun v3 with powerful-ish moves at the start to a high juggy finish. Then we made our way over to Pimpers Paradise. I did the top out to build my confidence and sent it on my second go from the start. It felt so good! I wanted to try another v5 called Big Cheesy so Casey did the V9 next to it, Taking the Stairs. Once he figured out the beta it was an easy send for him! The next day we decided to head to New Joe’s. Casey did the top of of Resident Evil then sent it first try from the start! We decided to hike up to Salsa Verde V5 and stopped to look at a few things on the way. It was hot and baking in the sun by that time of the day, so I fell three or four times from the slopey holds at the top. The next morning Casey wanted to try Eye of the Beholder V10/11 (depending on who you ask) so we hiked up and he sent it from where we thought the start was in about 40 minutes. We drove over to New Joes so I could do Salsa Verde. In the meantime, Casey decided to make sure he started Eye of the Beholder from the right place. A few holds have broken so it is really unclear where the new start is. He watched 3 videos of the climb. All three started at least one move lower than he did, but all three used different starting holds! He was feeling discouraged that he might not have done the real problem, so after I sent Salsa Verde, we decided to drive back to Right Fork, make the steep hike up the hill and try it from the lower start. Might as well right?! We were exhausted from so much hiking, but Casey tried the problem from what seemed like the most logical lower start and was able to send it really quickly again! It was awesome! Playmate of the Year V9 was on the trail on our hike back down so he decided to try that one since we were there. And he sent! It was a great trip for both of us! We were completely spent by the time we got home, but it was a great feeling knowing that we were both able to accomplish some personal bests. I think it was our best combined send trip yet!

Most of these pics are from different trips. We have started collecting some video footage that we'll be publishing someday...