Our move to Salt Lake City has been beneficial for me as a climber in a few different ways. First of all, access to a gym, while not as enjoyable as climbing as outside, has helped me progress in both strength and technique just by the availability of a lot of mileage and through all of the training tools available (campus board, weights, etc.). Second of all, and probably the most significant of the two, is the way it has opened my eyes to possibilities! I get to see so many strong women climbing both at the gym and outside. I realized that I have been holding myself back by placing barriers on what I thought was possible for myself. Moving to a new climbing community has been enlightening just because I have witnessed so many people saying, "Why not?" and going for something beyond what they might see as their limit. No, I haven't made any huge jumps in my progression...but I am seeing progression! Nothing is more satisfying in climbing than experiencing tangible progress.
Moes has been my stomping ground since I started bouldering and it's really where I learned to climb. It's also a great place for me to be able to perceive how much I have improved. I got my first V1 at Moes and I was stoked! I also got my first V2, V4, V5 and V6 at Moes. I know it's not the most awesome climbing crag in the world, but it has a variety of classic problems and I have truly enjoyed climbing there. It feels like home, and I love the Southern Utah Desert!
Ever since I started climbing, I have heard people rave about the problem Israil at Moes Valley. After I got a few V5's I decided to take a look at it. I felt the holds and everything seemed doable, except the big move left to an opposing sidepull jug. I thought my arms were too stretched out and it would be impossible for me to do it without using the slopey crimp at the lip. I told myself it was too hard for shorter people, and I moved on to other things. This year, I decided I'd like to give it another shot. For the MLK holiday weekend Casey and I traveled to Moes for a little climbing trip. I hoped Israil would feel possible, but in the back of my mind I still had doubts. My first session on it I was able to do all of the moves! Without using the horrible crimp! I was so psyched!!! I figured out my beta for all of the moves, and went back on Monday to give it another go. I wasn't able to send but I made some good links. Over the next few weeks I obsessed over the climb. Every night as I was falling asleep, I was mentally climbing Israil, remembering every foot hold, every hand bump. Finally Presidents Day rolled around and we made our way back to Moes. My first try on the climb I made a link from the start to the big move and almost stuck it! It felt like I had climbed it a million times. I worked out the big move a few times by itself and went from the start again. I was so excited I had butterflies! Everything came together and I was able to send the problem!! It was one of my favorite sends to date. I loved it!! That is why I love bouldering. The process of the movement going from impossible, to probable, and finally doing it. So fun!!
(video footage coming soon!)
I was also able to send a few other problems while we were there.
Dustbowl V5
Unfortunately there aren't as many double digit problems left for Casey to climb as there are moderates for me, but he was able to keep himself entertained by sending Yoyo Mama, a V10 on the Monkey Boy boulder.
Whenever we go back to Southern Utah we love seeing our friends and family in the area! There are so many great people both in the climbing community and just in general.
Kara working out her beta on Hermione V3
