Some Recent Stuff, and Ibex...of Course

Let's start with Tommy.  In September I gave him the goal of climbing a V8 or better each week until the first week of December.  This means 12 V8s or harder in 12 weeks. Tommy modestly accepted the challenge responding with something like, "There's no way! But I guess I'll try."  Well today is October 30th and Tommy has already completed his goal with 8 V8s, 4 V9s, and a V10! Basically the kid hasn't even touched his potential and will surely be pulling down CRAZY hard stuff really soon.

Zach has also come up with some impressive FA's as of late.  All of them being really nice additions to the Cedar City area.  In Bunker Creek he climbed this neat roof hidden amongst the titanic boulders.  He called this line "50 Degrees of Perfection" (V9) and I believe he considers it to be the best in the area.  Another amazing FA is the the Wash project.  It's a boulder that we found about two years ago and cleaned just this spring. It is really different from the other problems in the wash in the fact that it is gritty and climbs more features than face holds.  I think it's pretty neato! He named it "The Bounty Hunter" (V10).

Zach put this video together:

Southern Utah Episode 4: Fall First Ascents from Zach Bradford on Vimeo.

Last weekend we took another trip to Ibex for a few days.  It was especially nice because Sheralee's family came and brought their luxurious trailer for us to relax and poop in. Tommy and I tried Bruce Lee and the Atomic Bomb.  I feel pretty close on both, but they just keep managing to evade me. Maybe next time.  Then we climbed the White Arete sit, a beautiful boulder climb. Next we tried Bigger is Better, and it shut us down. Fortunately I was staying an extra day so the next day I managed to crawl up it.  I absolutely love that climb. Sheralee has also been climbing really well lately.  She climbed Captain Choss in two tries and nearly climbed this super fun V5 called the Blob, falling on the last move.

Bruce Lee: It won this round

White Arete Sit: Tommy murdered it

The Blob: Next time for sure Sheralee!

Ya I got guns!!

Cameron on this fun boulder rock

Bigger is Better: Love it!!

Nice view eh?

The Cone

Probably my favorite thing about climbing, besides actually climbing, is the people we climb with! Nothing beats a good session with good people. We had a fun evening at The Cone bouldering with all our group of newly married friends. There are some seriously fun problems there! We also discovered that s'mores are really quite delicious when graham crackers are substituted with chocolate chip cookies. Bonus!! Thank you to Hope again for supplying us with delicious edibles. It's a good thing she's so prepared.

Down by the River

Projects excite me! I just love it when something that previously felt impossible turns possible.  I love the anticipation of getting closer and closer on a problem that's at my physical limit.  Then when I finally do send...there aren't too many feelings that compare.  It's refreshing to know that you have the power to accomplish things that are really really REALLY hard for you.   

Near Zion, UT there is a small, STEEP limestone crag next to the Virgin River.  The rock is a little chossy, but the problems are quite spectacular.  I really enjoy the steep, physical, and sustained style.  Lately I've gotten more than a little psyched on a very difficult, very LONG problem put up by pro climber Joe Kinder, called Bovice.  It is far more difficult that anything I've ever done. So we'll see how it goes.  I'm definitely going to have to be patient on this one.

Yesterday we went there with Tommy and Bridget.  Tommy worked on a really cool line named Six Shooter.  Sheralee sent a fun V4 that we've dubbed "The Saw" in about 9.5 tries.  She's getting ready to crush! Go teacher power!!

The Saw

Tommy Six Shooting

Me trying to figure things out on Bovice

A Mystical Land

School has forced me to pick a random place with rocks to examine as a senior project.  After a little bit of pondering I thought to myself, "Hey I know a place with rocks".  This small stroke of genius has brought me to the mystical land of Ibex to do extensive research for a few hours during the day and climb every other small fraction of time.  

I really don't think there's anywhere that compares to  Ibex.  It is located right smack in the middle of nowhere.  There are a series of tall rocky ridges and vast valleys with randomly located outcrops of artistically colored bullet quartzite.  The majority of boulders are huge, with some nice lowballs.  The style is delicate yet powerful and most of the problems are very sustained, even through the mantles.  One of the best parts is that nobody is out there.  It seems to be bouldering's best kept secret. (If this is inspiring you to take a trip, please ignore my rants and raves of Ibex's awesomeness.  It is really just a really long drive to some frictionless crap.  The wind blows 90 miles an hour every day an it's usually raining some of the time.  Unless we invite you to come with us, then it's incredible.)

So here's a photodump from a couple of weekends spent in Nowhereland, UT: